When to Prune
Seasonal Pruning Charts
The information below will help you decide when and how to prune your plantlife throughout each season.
Late Winter-Early Spring:
- This is the best season to prune most plants because it is prior to the beginning of growth.
- Prune at ground level of a few of the oldest canes from all mature shrubs, except the early flowering types.
- Trim deciduous hedges wider at the base narrower at the top.
- From dormant fruit trees – remove weak, broken and crowded branches.
- Head back branches that have flower buds.
- In spring, prune evergreens of winter damaged wood and discolored foliage.
- Avoid pruning frozen wood.
| PLANT: | INSTRUCTIONS: |
| APPLE: | Prune moderately. Trim for low head. Keep main branches well spaced around tree. |
| AZALEA: | To renew old plants, fertilize well for one year. Then in spring, remove any damaged or overgrown canes. Could be poisonous. |
| CHERRY: | Prune moderately, lightly prune the most vigorous shoots. |
| GRAPE: | Heavily prune old wood back to the main vine. Cut previous year’s growth back to four or five buds. |
| PEACH: | Prune for low, ball-shaped top at a clean trunk. Vigorously prune one half of previous year’s growth. Keep center of tree open for good air circulation. Very poisonous. |
| PLUM: | Prune moderately and a little each year at the crown to keep shoots coming on. |
| BARBERRY: | Prune lightly after flowering to restore shape. |
| ELDERBERRY: | After fruiting, remove some of the oldest shoots at the ground, or cut back an old plant hard to force a new crop of canes. |
| HYDRANGIA: | Prune Hills-of-Snow variety back to the ground. For other varieties, remove weak and dead growth and cut flowering stems back to two buds. |
| ROSES: | (Hybrid, Tea and Perpetual) After frosts, cut away dead and weak growth and shorten remaining canes to four or five buds. |
| SNOWBERRY: | Cut old twiggy canes. Cut back last season’s growth of remaining parts to three buds. |
Late Spring-Early Summer:
- This is the season of greatest growth.
- Remove some of the oldest canes of mature shrubs after flowering. Pinch out tips to encourage branching.
- Freely trim narrow-leaf evergreens of new growth.
- Remove dead flowers from broad-leaf evergreens to prevent formation of speed pods.
- Pinch any buds that may be starting unwanted growth.
| PLANT: | INSTRUCTIONS: |
| AZALEA: | Prune for shape after all blooming has stopped. Could be poisonous. |
| DEUTZIA: | Prune lightly to remove a few older branches and dead twigs after blooming has stopped. |
| DOGWOOD: | (Flowering) After flowering, remove dead wood only. (Other) Prune dead wood only to preserve natural beauty. |
| FORSYTHIA: | After flowering, remove a few older branches. For old, neglected plants, cut back entire plant to about one foot, leave three to five canes. Could be poisonous. |
| HONEYSUCKLE: | Cut some of the oldest wood to the ground every four to five years. Pinch shoots to encourage branching. Could be poisonous. |
| MOUNTAIN LAUREL: | Prune lightly. Pinch off clusters of spent blossoms. Remove a few old branches at the ground to induce new growth from roots. Could be poisonous. |
| PRIVET: | In April, cut back hard to rejuvenate old plants. Could be poisonous. |
| RHODODENDRON: | Same as Mountain Laurel. |
| ROSES: | (Climbing) After flowering, prune one half of the old growth at the ground. Keep new shoots for next year’s flowers. |
| PINE/SPRUCE: | Cut back candles on side of branches of young trees to one half or less after needles have expanded but before hardening |
Summer:
- Summer pruning entails removal of plant parts that are actively at work.
- Shear hedges regularly for appearance.
- Prune some lower branches from shade trees to develop clean trunks.
- Always be ready to pinch tips of leafy shoots, but not until after flowering.
- Limit pruning done late in the summer as new growth may be damaged by the coming low temperatures.
| PLANT: | INSTRUCTIONS: |
| APPLE: | Prune to encourage good structure growth and suppoprt. |
| BLACKBERRY: | Cut back new shoots to approximately three and one half feet. |
| CRABAPPLE: | Cut away weak internal shoots and crowded branches to a crotch. Thin out weeping and spreading forms to accentuate their growth patterns. |
| HOLLY: | Prune at any time of the year to restore shape. |
| RASPBERRY: | Head back new canes to approximately 22 inches. Remove spent canes and excess shoots. |
| ROSES: | Prune lightly to shorten shoots only. Remove faded flowers (except for species roses). |
| PRIVET: | Starting in June, trim to shape three times at six week intervals. |
| YEW: | Trim to maintain shape. Could be poisonous. |
| WILD CHERRY: | Prune very lightly. Trim lower branches and burn the extremely poisonous wilted foliage. |
Fall-Winter:
- Prune shade trees all winter for general shaping and to repair damage.
- Prune shrubs once more in September, especially to remove basal suckers.
- Avoid pruning evergreens.
- When removing heavy limbs, use proper safety proceedures.
| PLANT: | INSTRUCTIONS: |
| HONEYSUCKLE: | Remove gnarled and diseased old wood. Could be poisonous. |
| MOCK ORANGE: | Remove a few of the oldest canes every three to four years. |
| PEONY: | (Herbaceous) Cut to the ground as leaves mature and look dry. |
| ROSES: | (Tea and Hybrid) Lightly prune to prevent wind whipping and storm damage. |
| FIR: | Use sharp tools to remove diseased or injured branches during very cold weather only. |
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